Where to find kebab

The Kebab House: Kebabçı/Kebab Evi & Ocakbaşı

A traditional kebab house or kebab evi is typically a large venue specializing in the grilled rather than stewed kebab varieties. The Ocakbaşı, a subcategory, is a specific kebab house where the large, Ottoman grill showcases as the dinning room's centerpiece. Guests are often encouraged to sit and dine around the grill, as it were a bar, where they can watch the usta or grill master work his magic up close.

Going out for kebab traditionally indicates a feast. The logic is as follows: In order to perk the appetite a round of cold, followed by a round of warm appetizers will precede the meal. And there's no question these will be accompanied by steaming homemade bread (just to tease any coeliacs). And don't forget the rakı, or traditional anise-flavored drink perfect for cleansing the palate between bites. To prove that it's the main course, you'll be bombarded with a giant portion of kebab that you'll never expect to finish. And when you finish it because it's just so tasty, of course, there are always plenty of desserts available to asist you with digestion.

It's important to note that these dishes are generally shared by the entire group, which also means beware of any bread dipping or spoon exchanging if you are sensitive to any of the items on the table. The quantity of food available at a kebab restaurant also means that us finicky foodies won't go hungry. Even if you can't find any suitable kebabs on the menu, there's a large selection of other things to try. So if you're traveling with a group, and you're the only one who suffers from food allergies (or the only vegetarian), you'll still find something to eat at a place like this.

Keeping that in mind, when it comes to kebab houses and food sensetivities, the more expensive, touristic restaurants are going to be more willing to cater to your demands. They have larger kitchens, and are more likely to have divided work stations—which means things like bread and vegetables will be cut on separate cutting boards. Their wait staff will also be more likely to speak foreign languages, be more informed about the foods they serve, and willing to inquire about your needs rather than tell you what they think you want to hear. Although, I'm still not making any promises. The more you stick to simplicity, the more you're likely to end up with a satisfied tummy.

Smaller, local kebab restaurants do offer their own benefits. These smaller versions often specialize in a certain variety of kebab, which may or may not be from the grill. For example, many restaurants in the Capadoccia region specialize in stewed, testi kebabı. They will most likely host a number of cold and warm appetizers like the larger kebab restaurants, however, it's also more common to order smaller or individual portions. In addition, the smaller the business, the more likely it is that the staff is familiar with the way the food is prepared. Since they specialize, it may also be easier to determine which options are suitable. And finally, because of their size it may be easier for them to pay special attention to your order. If, in addition, it's in a touristic region, chances are they will also speak some English.

Lokantas & Ottoman Cuisine

These restuarants are more likely to offer the oven roasted or stewed kebab varieties. They typically specialize in Ottoman Cuisine, but of course, even that will vary according to region. Again, some typical cold and warm appetizers or meze will be available in addition to soups, salads, main courses and desserts. Such venues will also host a variety of ev yemeği or homestyle dishes, which I will detail in subsequent posts. And similar to the smaller kebab restaurants, it's more acceptable to order smaller portions.

Cafeterias & fast food

The small buffet style cafeterias are a cheap, quick way to fill up. They generally offer döner kebabı, in addition to various others depending on the daily menu. The great thing about these cheap joints is that they tend to avoid using butter to reduce costs. Since many of the fancier restaurants like to cook their rice and douse their kebabs in butter, for some of us it may actually be a safer bet. Unfortunately, that doesn't completely rule out other potential hazards such as margarine or bullion. The source of meat and/or chicken may also pose a threat, as I wouldn't be surprised if the döner in some places contains soy or other flavoring. Furthermore, the stafff may lack sufficient English, and you'll need to be ready to explain quickly as you move through the line.

As you can see, each variety of kebab and vendor encompasses it's own risks. In the following post I will describe them all in a bit more detail according to each of the most common allergens.

Common kebabs

If you're at all familiar with Turkish or Middle-Eastern cuisine, the first thing that probably comes to mind is kebab. And if you're planning to visit Turkey, I'm sure you won't want to leave without a taste—unless of course you're vegan or vegetarian. So let me introduce you to the ins and outs of allergy fee kebabing.

There are about a bazillion different varieties of kebab in Turkey, as just about every region has developed it's own version. Let me start by introducing you to the most popular ones. You will no doubt be able to find most of these in any restaurant you encounter wherever you are in Turkey. However, I will have to leave the local varieties up to you. If you're really interested in trying the local flavor, you may run a higher risk.

Common varieties:

Adana – Named after a city in Southern Turkey, it's made of spicy minced lamb meat, grilled on a skewer. It generally includes sweet red peppers and perhaps some capsicum and garlic. When traveling near Adana it may be found under the name of kıyma kebabı.

Ali Nazik – Ground or cubed meat prepared in a tomato sauce, served over eggplant puree with a side of yogurt.

Beyti – Is a typical Istanbul kebab, also made of minced lamb. The minced meat is seasoned with parsley and fresh garlic. It is almost always wrapped in Dürüm or flat bread, drizzled in tomato sauce and served with yogurt.

Çömlek – Meat and vegetables stewed in an earthenware bowl or casserole known as a güveç.

Çöp Şiş – Marinated sheep, lamb or beef, cut into small pieces and grilled on small, wooden skewers.

Döner – This is the kind of kebab that turns on a spit, and is cooked as it turns by an adjacent source of heat. The meat is sliced off and served between bread or on top of rice.

Hünkar Beğendi – Similar to Ali Nazik, pieces of stewed meat over eggplant puree without the yogurt.

İskender – At fast food joints döner meat is used in this kebab, although the original is higher in quality, lower in fat and served in longer strips. The strips of meat are then drizzled with tomato sauce and sizzling butter, served on top of a layer of flat bread with a scoop of yogurt on the side.

Kağıt – Bits of lamb and mixed vegetables wrapped in parchment paper and oven roasted.

Orman – Chunks of lamb still on the bone, stewed with vegetables such as carrots, peas and potatoes.

Patlıcan – Minced meat, garlic, parsley and other spices formed into meatballs and grilled on a skewer or in the oven between slices of eggplant or aubergine.

Şiş – This is the term for any cubed meat roasted over coals on a skewer. The pieces are larger than çöp as the skewers are larger and metal. Varieties span from chicken or tavuk, lamb or kuzu, sheep or koyun, to beef or dana şiş kebabs.

Simit – Similar to Adana, but minced with bulgur wheat.

Tas- Stewed lamb or beef in a tomato sauce served with potatoes.

Testi – Similar to Çömlek kebabı, this stew is prepared in an earthenware jug. called a testi, which often must be cracked open to serve.

Urfa – Similar to Adana kebabı, but less spicy.

(Yufkalı) Saç – Lamb prepared on an iron metal plate or saç, with onions, tomatoes, green peppers and spices. This version can also be baked and served in yufka or phyllo dough as well.

As you can see, şiş (shish) kebabs are only the beginning: there are hundreds of different varieties of kebab to choose from. To complicate things further, different restaurants and different regions each specialize in their own varieties. Such a complicated subject is going to require a few entries, therefore, please read on to find out how to find the safest kebab for you.

Safe veggie dishes

Have I mentioned that Turkey is a wonderful place for Coeliacs to visit? I can't deny that you may be greeted by a few shocked expressions, as the general population is still very unfamiliar with food allergies or intolerances. Furthermore, bread and pastries do serve as a staple in the diet. Although at first glance it may appear that the majority of Turkish cuisine is gluten based, please don't be discouraged. A closer look will reveal quite a variety of reliable, delicious fare.

Let's begin with a group of dishes known as zeytinyağlılar (zetin-ya-la-lour) or dishes based in olive oil. These dishes are made almost exclusively of vegetables, and therefore are also a reliable choice for vegetarians. They are generally served cold and can be found in just about any restaurant or cafeteria. They are especially popular in both fish and kebab restaurants, where they are served as cold appetizers or meze.

If you suffer from wheat or gluten sensitivities, they may be your safest option. Generally speaking they consist of vegetables, olive oil, a little bit of sugar, salt, and pepper. Plus, they do not contain bullion or any other such additives.

Let me note here that though these dishes are traditionally cooked in olive oil, many of the cheaper cafeterias and canteens may cook them in either corn or sunflower oil to reduce costs. Though I have sensitivities to both corn and sunflower seeds, their oils do not seem to bother me—probably because their protein content is low. However, please be careful where you eat if you are sensitive to such foods.

Finally, here's a list of popular zeytinyağlılar. Though they generally contain similar ingredients, some varieties may be prepared with or exposed to common allergens. Therefore, I have split the list into various sections according to their ingredients. Be aware that some varieties may be prepared in more than one way, and therefore appear under more than one heading. Be careful when ordering off a menu, as it may be less clear which variety of a vegetable is being served.

In addition, zeytinyağlı varieties change seasonally, therefore, you may only come across a certain portion of this list during your visit.

My favorites:

Leeks - Pırasa

Green beans - Ayse kadın/Taze/çalı fasuliye

Pinto beans - barbunya pilaki

Stuffed grape leaves - yaprak sarma

Stuffed cabbage leaves - lahana sarma

Stuffed peppers - biber dolması

Celery root - kereviz

Chard – pazı

Spinach - ıspanak

Chopped eggplant in tomato sauce - şakşuka/domates soslu patlıcan

Dressed Eggplant – İmam bayıldı

Cabbage - kapuska

Other reliable varieties include:

Taro (similar to yams) - yer elması

Okra - bamya

Mushroom - mantar

Brussels Sprouts - brüksel lahanası

Broccoli - brokoli

Carrot - havuç

The following varieties may be more dangerous depending on the foods you are trying to avoid.

Gluten:

Flour may have been used as a thickener in:

Artichokes - enginar

Broad beans - bakla

Broad bean paste - fava

Baba ghanoush or eggplant salad - patlıcan salatası (this may also contain cream or mayonnaise)

Hummus - humus

Flour is used in the batter for:

Zucchini pancakes - mücver

May have been coated with flour or fried in grease containing remnants of flour

Fried zucchini or eggplant and peppers – kabak kızartma or (patlıcan biber) kızartma

May contain vegetables pickled using bread in the fermentation process (pickles - Turşu):

Potato salad - patates salatası

Dairy

The words yoğurt and krema translate to yogurt and cream respectively. Any variety of veggies may be prepared with either of these ingredients, however, with a few exceptions you will generally find one of these two words in the title.

Varieties that may be prepared or served with dairy (yogurt or cream)

Purslane - semizotu

Creamy carrots – yoğurtlu havuç

Creamy eggplant or zucchini – Yoğurtlu patlıcan or kabak

Fried zucchini or eggplants and peppers – kabak kızartma or (patlıcan biber) kızartma

Baba ghanoush or eggplant salad - patlıcan salatası

Broad beans - bakla

Spinach - ispanak

Areas of expertise

I am continuously trying uncover any of the naturally allergen free food choices Turkish and other cuisines may have to offer. In this blog I will be discussing the foods and dishes I have come across that contain few or none of the most common food allergens or irritants. However, I am also much more familiar with the those from which I suffer. Therefore, I would like to introduce you to my areas of expertise.

I am most sensitive to:

Gluten (wheat, barley, rye and oats)

casein (all dairy products including goat milk and cheese)

corn

soy

most seeds and nuts

I have slight reactions to:

chocolate

garbanzo beans

I also want to stress that if you are concerned about any allergens or irritants that I do not discuss here, please feel free to contact me. I would be happy to provide you with any information I have or can get a hold of. And while I specialize in Turkish cuisine, I am happy to discuss other cuisines as well.

An Introduction

This blog is a tribute to all those who, like me, felt hampered by the discovery of their food allergies. For me it was my love for travel that made this diagnosis so unsettling. Although, on one hand I was excited about the prospect of resolving certain health issues, on the other I felt trapped. Not only was I going to have to give up my favorite foods, but I knew it was going to be practically impossible to travel the way I wanted with such dietary restrictions. It appeared that I was going to have to sacrifice what felt like either my mental health or my physical well-being.

The good news is that that wasn't the case.  About six months later I decided to get moving and flew to Germany, and from there to Turkey.  I have been living in Istanbul since.  During that time I have traveled within Turkey as well as the U.S. (where I'm from), various countries in North, East and West Africa and Europe.  Although I cannot say that my travels always end up 100% allergy free,  I can say that I am in much better condition both mentally and physically than before the diagnosis.  

      

My first priority with this blog is to share my experiences with food, with traveling and with food while traveling in the event that they might help you or other allergic travelers upon their way. 

My second and more covert goal is to convince you to visit Turkey--just to warn you.  But for the record, you can rest assured that my endorsements in no way benefit any third parties.  I'm just very fond of the place.